We test French press coffee makers the same way we test standard drip machines.
Brian Bennett/CNETI then add hot water (203 degrees Fahrenheit, 95 degrees Celsius), or nearly boiling water, to the brewing chamber, stir the grounds and let them sit for 4 minutes. After that I drop the coffee plunger for each press and pour a sample cup. Next, I draw a sample of the brewed coffee and measure its percentage of total dissolved solids. I use a pocket reflectometer for this test. From there, I can calculate the extraction percentage for each batch of coffee I brew.
Ideally, the extraction percentage of brewed coffee should be in the range of 19% to 22%. Though this number alone doesn't guarantee delicious joe, it's a strong indicator of it. Ultimately, the truth lies in a proper taste test.
Source: cnet.com