Singapore's watch scene traditionally orbits legends like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. These icons remain dependable and instantly recognizable. Yet, a strategic pivot is underway among the city-state's most discerning collectors.
A growing cohort is turning away from traditional powerhouses toward independent brands and microbrands. Names like Christopher Ward, Horizon, and Christiaan van der Klaauw are gaining fervent fans. They offer unconventional designs and singular craftsmanship that prioritize individuality over status.
Jeremy Ong, a 50-year-old interior designer with a collection spanning hundreds of pieces, leads this charge. While he owns major brands like Omega and Zenith, his inclination favors pieces echoing his personality. Ong recalls a dinner where dozens of Submariners clashed, yet his unique Jules Jurgensen stood out immediately.
Ong collects anything that catches his eye, fits his style or personality. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
This shift reflects a return to purist values. Historically, collecting was about mechanical movements and finishing, not resale value. Today, however, hype culture has transformed watches into financial instruments. Waiting lists stretch for years, and prices spike upon release.
Ong's collection spans vintage pieces and independent brands. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Cecil Hamilton, 55, works in marketing and has stepped away from the mainstream. He owns about 30 watches exclusively from independent makers. Hamilton finds genuine connection in supporting creators through platforms like Kickstarter and events like the Spring Sprang Sprung fair.
It was a chance encounter at independent watch fair Spring Sprang Sprung that set Cecil Hamilton on a path he has never looked back from. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Hamilton backs watch projects on Kickstarter, supporting makers from the earliest stages of an idea, long before a watch ever reaches the wrist. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Hamilton has consciously stepped away from the mainstream market, limiting his collection of watches entirely to independent brands and microbrands. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Financial fundamentals also drive this migration. Rising costs and chronic unavailability of grail pieces like the Nautilus push enthusiasts toward accessible alternatives. Benjamin Tan, a 43-year-old entrepreneur, questions the dignity of jumping through hoops for allocation.
Benjamin Tan's test for any watch is simple: would you still want it if every model held the same value on the secondary market? (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Tan advises stripping away premiums and bragging rights. Would the piece still call to you? For seasoned collectors, the answer reveals whether a choice stems from passion or market pressure.
Tan is selective about the watches he collects. Every single one, he says, has to touch his heart. (Photo: CNA/Dillon Tan)
Ultimately, the market is swinging back toward human connection. Collectors crave intimacy and the personal relationships that once defined the trade. As Ong notes, witnessing a creator's journey from the very beginning offers a welcome injection into the broader watch world.