Journeying west of Johor Bahru's city center leads to Kampung Simpang Arang, a village preserving a unique heritage.
This settlement is home to the Orang Seletar, or "sea people," indigenous to the region. Their history is intertwined with the area's past as a charcoal industry hub, alongside Chinese settlers.
Within this community, Zhi Lai Hai Xian (Kedai Makan Simpang Arang) offers a family-run seafood experience. The restaurant highlights the freshness of its catch, sourced from a nearby river leading to the sea.
Standout dishes include sotong sambal, a tender squid with a spicy kick, and a signature salted egg and black pepper crab. Other offerings feature mussels in kam heong style and lala clams.
Accompanying the seafood are stir-fried kangkong cili and prawns in an Indonesian-style curry. Giant clams, served with crispy minced garlic and vermicelli, provide a final surprise.
Later, the journey continues to Anjung Perintis Cafe, a rustic establishment built around four trees.
This "shop under the tree" carries on the legacy of its late owner, Sarikan, offering comforting home-style classics. A must-try is the "sup gearbox," a rich mutton soup, and the authentic teh halia, brewed with real ginger.
These locations serve not only as dining spots but as cultural touchstones, preserving heritage against modern influences.